Greetings, Knuckles here!

The models that I make and adapt are, I hope, different than most others. The reason being that my attitude towards RWS modelling is rather rigid and in some cases expensive! If I need a tool, or can't obtain a needed locomotive part, I might buy the whole loco just to cut it up. It's a sad and expensive route to follow, but if you can afford it, then do it! If you cannot, save up - only then do I make a compromise. The Bachmann Thomas and Friends models are fine if you are a follower of the TV series, but incorrect as not enough research was done by the show's modelmakers in the early days. They appeared to have been sticking primarily to C.R. Dalby's versions during their construction for the TV series. Hornby's Thomas models are more realistic as they are based on prototypes, but again just don't 'often' do the characters justice.

---

Duck

This green 57xx by Bachmann (above) has been bashed into Duck by the enterprising Gavin Rose of SiF (right). Gavin's Railway Series conversion instructions are in the diagram below.

Gordon MK-I on Gavin's Layout

Gordon's livery was originally green on the 'Other Railway'. He was the experimental loco before Great Northern, the 1st ever A1. Once the engineers ironed out the defects, and Great Northern and the other initial A1's were built, Gordon was sold to the NWR on Sodor with a spare boiler and firebox. In this form he is a straight A1 with a GNR 8-wheeled tender. The Rev. Awdry never modelled this or had it depicted in his stories or illustrations, though. To build Gordon, I used a Hornby Great Northern, being the first-ever A1, this should ensure that any subtle detail differences in this class of locomotive are avoided.

(There is a question whether or not Gordon and Great Northern are one and the same. It's very possible!)

Front side-view detail	Tender detail

Another side-view of Gordon MK-I	Gavin even sculpted a face for Gordon!

In 1939. Gordon went to Crewe for a rebuild. His conjugated valve gear was playing up as it did on alot of A1's during that period. It was replaced by a 2 cylinder design, now that Sir Topham Hatt had the capital to fund the retrofit. Gordon received a smoother-looking running plate designed by Hatt himself (he might have gotten the basic idea from Henry MK 1), Stanier underframes, and most likely Black-5 cylinders and valve gear (Gordon could have had cylinders cast to specifications slightly larger than those of the Black 5s, however this is less likely, but not impossible). Gordon's original pony and bogey were retained. Squared-off side windows, rectangular buffers, and the Fowler style tender (probably flush-riveted 3500 Gallon type with horizontal strip removed) complimented the retrofit. The Island of Sodor spans 62 miles East-West, so the larger GNR tender was likely considered a waste of size and weight.

Gordon also appears to have the lower-type cab typical of late A1's and all A3's. Although the boiler resembles and may very well be that of an A1, a wealth of research with Rhys Davies/Loey Machan and his calculations determined that Gordon's spare A1 boiler was in part exchanged for that of an A3, with the super heater on the smokebox side replaced by another one-off design, mounted on the interior as had been done with other locomotives, a very possible proposition. Gordon MK II is likely to be slightly weaker than his original form, redesigned partly for economy, as James and Henry can often match his performance for less money.

Rhys decided that Black 5 wheels are a high possibility and would give Gordon more power, but I decided to use Princess wheels because it was also agreed they should give more of a speed compromise and look more 'correct' (at least to me) as the former look too small. In reality, either option is possible.

Gavin's kitbashed Gordon MK-II

The model I used was the chassis from a Hornby Princess and the body of a Hornby A1 (later cab type). Gordon's wheels are of debate, and as mentioned above, on my model I used Princess 6’ 6" wheels. Wilbert's model was an old tooling Stanier Princess from the 1950's, I believe. The Rev.'s model was less scaled, and the chassis had the spacing between each driving wheel even. I found that this wasn't so on a real Princess and on the new model chassis I was using, it was uneven - the rear driver is further away from the front two. The splasher spacing was obviously different too, so I had to destroy the running plate and make my own. If Wilbert had this newer type to use as a model, the illustrations would have had uneven driving wheels, which to a real Princess would be correct, and I presume the same could be said about the illustrations.

The same could be said for the boiler bands. Wilbert was trying to make an A1/3 out of a Princess and he ended up with 5 boiler bands. also seen in the illustrations. His detailed description of Gordon in The Island of Sodor: It's People History and Railways specifically state that the top is half is still Gresley and not Stanier. This shouts to me that 7 boiler bands is more correct. The real A1/3's have exactly 7 boiler bands, therefore his model should have had 7 bands for these reasons.

I'm speculating that uneven wheel spacings, a modified Princess chassis including wheels were possibly used to build Gordon MK II. These are my justifications for going against the illustrations! Logical though.

Front side-view of Gordon MK-II	Gordon MK-II's Tender detail

Gordon's characteristic curved flowing front on his running plate was again questionable. On the running plate of an A1/3 it goes from the rear to the front straight, then drops down at the front splasher. I decided to raise it there at the front, meeting the height of the rear section. Different RWS illustrations show otherwise, but Gordon's valve gear would not practically fit. Artists John T. Kenney and especially Peter and Guvnor Edwards' pictures look better scale-wise, and the question is whether or not the new running plate height is neither lower level with the front half or somewhere in between. It's a small difference either way, you decide!

Plasticard was used for the new running plate sloping forward to match the front already sloped upwards (if that makes sense). The middle part of the curve in front of the smokebox door was made using a rather unconventional method, Glue! Normally, a filler or putty would be used, but I instead filled it with Polystyrene Cement and angled it so that gravity would keep it in the correct position. Once it was dried into a semi-hard goo, I fiddled the edges to neaten its appearance. Once completely dried, I used a mini-drill equipped with a wool buffer and went at it, painting it black afterwards. I then buffered and repeated the process to a smooth finish.

I later found out that Gordon MK II was likely to be left hand drive, based on a combination of research and illustrations. On my model the pipe on the right side of the boiler was moved to the left to match the reverser rod under the running plate. I also changed some aspects of the cab layout around, and made a mock-up pipe and oil can. This cab change isn't mega-accurate though. Gordon's Tender is an etched Brass kit from Comet Models via Mainlytrains.com

I still need to add a tender door, smoke generators and coal though. I fitted works plates to both sides of the cab in relation to Gordon's two forms, as illustrated in the pictures. I added scaled couplings to the front, and I drilled holes in the lamps to fit on the lamp irons in any combination, bluetack inside. A tip from me, but Tony Wright should be credited as I heard it from him in one of his Right Track DVD series. Highly recommended viewing!

Forward facing view of Gavin's model	...and another view of Gordon MK-II

One of the other things I must bring to your attention is to the steam pipes on the edge of the smokebox. On all A1/3's they go into the cylinder from the rear half. Most illustrations show this feature too, however, on Black 5 cylinders the steam pipe enters at the centre! So this means that either the steam pipes need to be moved, or the cylinder position moved, OR as I suggested earlier the cylinders are possibly a slightly different design likely to be more meaty than black 5 ones to compensate for Gordon's removal of the middle cylinder.

I prefer this proposition as it would make sense for Gordon and Henry to be able to exchange parts, but seeing as Sir Topham Hatt has never been conventional and is renown for experimenting and trying out new things, having unique and more powerful cylinders cast wouldn't be an impossibility.

As a finishing touch, I weather the locomotives slightly.

Basically, I dust the black down to give a compromise with the different visions we have. Light-grey running plates, dark-grey and black. I paint them black to resemble the late RWS pics, Wilbert's models and real engines. Lightly weathering them with grey gives a good compromise and takes the model sheen off. Underframes are treated with mild rust, dust and oil on the rods.

With all aspects of RWS research things needing to be thoroughly investigated, several true outcomes are possible. But the deeper you look into things, the closer you get to the truth providing you to add everything into the pot. I could go on forever about how I did this, but I better stop here!

Gavin's version of Henry MK-II

After an accident with the Tidmouth kipper in 1935, (‘Could’ be 1950, bit of controversy) Henry was sent to Crewe and rebuilt either exactly into or similarly into a Stanier 5MT, or Black 5 - or in this case a Green 5! My Henry model was a Hornby Super Detailed Stanier 5MT repainted with realistic couplings identical to Gordon's, that's it! I will at some point give him a Fowler tender as per Gordon, along with cylinder cocks etc. When Henry returned from Crewe, it's clear he has a Stanier Tender, later to be replaced by the Fat Controller's favorite Fowler type.

Front-side view of Henry MK-II	Gavin's sculpted face for Henry
MK-II Henry is all smiles!	Another view of Henry

---

Henry MK-I

Gavin's Henry MK-I

My original Henry MK 1 was my 1st kitbash ever from an old tooling of the Flying Scotsman. I took the 1st chunk out of the firebox and joined the cab back, that gave Henry a smaller firebox. The tender was a Hornby 'Gordon' with a 'Bullyed' Bullied tender top. (rubbish pun intended!) I painted it the relevant colours with a light grey running plate, which was about it. I was pleased at the time, but since my latest project, I felt that it needed to be updated to a quality more uniform to the rest, commence the Revision!

This being an old tooling wasn't going to be easy bringing it close to my current standard that came from the newer Hornby 'super detail' standard. I wanted Loco drive which would also enable me to fabricate a more accurate tender. None of Hornby's new A1/3 tooling chassis would fit because the cut-down firebox. Bachmann's chassis weren't suitable , so I opted for an old 40 year-ish old Hornby instead (or was it Triang?).

Obviously, the cylinders and valve gear were thick and chunky, same as before, so I ordered some newer tooling A1 ones. This is where, like Gordon MK II, things get...err, unique. The old valve gear and plastic bracket pulled out easily enough after undoing the rod screws and the one of the motor securing screws. I then cut the cylinders off the old ones and retained the bracket in between and cut the new cylinders off their bracket and glued them to the old bracket.

Because the chassis block is designed for more than one valve gear type there was an extra gap under the motor. Funnily enough, the new valve gear and metal bracket slid under there no problem, even the screw gap was in the correct place. Perfect! Or so I thought.

After fiddling and putting it together, it wouldn't run properly. Yet when the valve gear was undone it would. After a few hours of playing about and repeatedly disconnecting/connecting, thinking it was too tight or whatever, I FINALLY found out the source of the problem. It was shorting out. It took me another age to find out why but if you read what I have written above, you might see the answer contained.......................seen it yet?...........Yes?....Oh good!...............for the rest of you, I'll explain:

Originally, the valve gear bracket was made of plastic and went in a slot in the chassis. This new tooling valve gear that fit perfectly in the other slot was made out of metal!

Lovely :(

So I had to pluck courage and snip the bracket off at the two ends closest to the moving rods and shape some plasti-kard as a replacement bracket, (not exactly amazingly strong) also making a hole in the centre for the motor screw to go in. This insulated the problem, and in testing ran fine, YAY!

The running plate needed to be dropped at the back and raised at the front (Gordon's was done the opposite way, you'll see the difference). The edge of the now lower splashers were made of plastikard scraps bashed to death with a mini drill sander after stogging them together with super glue, worked a treat (bit o' Miliput used also).

The valve gear bracket had to pop through the lower running plate unfortunately, no getting around it. But unlike Gordon there is less official info on Henry MK 1 so artistic license reigned. That is also the reason why part of the top of the valve gear bracket has been chopped. They look a bit like lubrication boxes, so that's fine with me. The running plate mod fits better this way, and officially what components did Henry have?...........I use my artistic license excuse once more with this model.

Rear view of Henry MK-I featuring the engine's tender

The front of the running plate was sanded to a smooth round drop and filled with glue that was shaped, as per Gordon MK II. An idea passed on to me by SiF member HBK, (Seanoc17 on MTF) was to use the logic that Sir Topham Hatt used the basic idea with Henry's smooth running plate, and thus adapted it to Gordon MK II's aesthetics, albeit a bit higher. I like that thought as it definitely matches up with RWS illustrations.

The firebox needed more adapting, so the triangular recesses were filled using plasti-kard and miliput, and the cab was sawn in half at the centre of the side windows, cut and sanded more and finally brought back together again. After painting, I saw that the firebox triangular bits showed up, even though it was smooth, so I had to shape some extremely thin plasti-kard and make mock covers. This took about three attempts because of uneven patches of glue and thus warping, and was a time consuming pain before I got it right.

The tender was a B12 one with 2 plasti-kard covers on the sides which changes the shape nicely to what was desired. :)

New handrails and cab rails are from 0.7mm brass wire and pillars though 0.45mm would have been better. The steps, cab doors and fall plate were pinched from a spare Black 5. Lamp irons, cylinder cock pipes and realistic front couplings were added next. The wheels, tyres and middle pin were changed too. I later moved the dome further back and smoothed the boiler with Miliput.

I think that about covers it. The green paint is dodgy, so in places the painting looks a bit messy. I couldn't use decal transfers because of the paint either, so free hand lining was used. It looks 'OK', but not as nice as Gordon MK II. I'll be making new faces too, he looks scary like the Joker! :( Anyway, enjoy!

Below: These 3 pics show my original attempts leading up to the recent revision of Henry MK I. Henry MK II is the Green Five.

---

Oliver

Gavin's version of Oliver

Page updated on 27 September, 2008